Interview with Chicago Chef Iliana Regan

Publish date: 2024-07-05

Earlier this month, Food & Wine announced its annual list of Best New Chefs, and Iliana Regan, an “amazing Chicago talent,” was number two. Regan—who currently helms a restaurant, Elizabeth, and a microbakery, Bunny— is also the only woman who made the 10-person cut (last year two female chefs were on the list).

Needless to say, we wanted to get to know Regan better, so we grilled her a little, and got her thoughts on the bro code that pervades the culinary industry, which female chefs she admires most, plus a damn delicious-sounding jam recipe that we’ll definitely be trying this summer.

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STYLECASTER: How do you feel about being the only woman on Food & Wine’s best new chefs of 2016 list? Why do you think there aren’t more women on there?
Iliana Regan: I wish it were more even, because there are just as many equally talented women chefs as men. I’m not sure why it was minimal. However, aside from gender, it was a list of good chefs and I’m proud to be included.

You’ve been praised for making Midwestern food sexy. Why do you think this kind of food gets a bad rap, and how do you make people see (or taste) it in a new light?
I don’t think it gets a bad rap. If it does, it’s likely from people outside the Midwest that think of us as steak and potatoes. That is certainly a part of it. But anyone who knows is aware that the Midwest is lush with fruits, veggies, nuts, trees, flowers, delicious weeds, critters. It’s beautiful—that’s why it’s sexy—but calling food sexy regardless is kind of gross.

I know you were raised on a farm and gathered food from the forest with your dad. Who else has been influential in your journey to becoming a chef and restaurant owner? Your mom works in the cheese department at Whole Foods; so is she a foodie, too?
My family was a big inspiration. We love food and cooking. My mom is vegan, so she’s really not a foodie, but she does make delicious vegan food. I’m inspired by everything. I’m exactly where I need to be in this industry.

How do you feel that being a woman has affected your career in the food world? Did you ever face sexism or skepticism about your chances of success?
I heard there was skepticism and sexism, but no one has very said it to my face. Probably because I have kitchen knives and would fuck them up. Generally, I feel welcome and supported. The positive always outnumbers the negative; unfortunately, it’s easier for those watching to focus on the negative. I’ve gotten to the point where I completely ignore it.

You’ve talked a bit about the fact that it’s harder to get investors as a woman—can you elaborate on that? Why is it easier for men to get financial backing? And how did you finally get the backing you needed?
I do think it’s true that it’s harder for women to get investors, but I’m not sure why. There must be some bro code I’m not privy to. I might be wrong, but I’m pretty darn certain this could be statistically proven. Pure persistence is the key, and simply pushing forward no matter what.

Who are some other female chefs that you admire and wish would get more recognition?
Elise Kornack is awesome, from Take Root in Brooklyn. Dominique Crenn, of San Francisco’s Atelier Crenn, definitely gets plenty of recognition, people know she’s amazing.

You’ve said that your advice to women pursuing a career in the culinary world would be to “have stamina, precision, a delicate hand, and focus.” Can you elaborate on what you mean by precision and a delicate hand, in this context?
Having a delicate hand isn’t simply about not being heavy-handed with the food: Take care of it. Precision is important when it comes to taste, recipe, plating. Be precise, neat, clean.

What’s your current favorite item on the menu at any of your restaurants? What future project or menu item are you most excited about right now?
My favorite menu item is Doughnut at Bunny. The project I’m most excited about is a tasting menu we’re doing this summer called “Ugly Fruit,” which will focus on 100-percent local produce from farms or woodlands that is overgrown, forgotten, or ugly.

Can you share one of your go-to recipes with us?
Here’s a recipe for a simple summer berry jam.

Basic Berry Preserves Recipe

Ingredients:

Instructions:

In large sauté pan, add the berries, sprinkle with salt and cook until the moisture comes out. Add the vinegar. Add the sugar, and cook until the sugar begins to melt. Once it’s mostly melted, stir, cook on low to medium heat, stirring intermittently and wiping down the sides. Use a large spoon to crush berry seeds during cooking process. Cook until you can run a spatula through it and it slowly pulls back together. Add more salt or vinegar to taste if needed.

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